Hidden Japan
Thinking of Japan conjures up a myriad of images for most of us -- neon lights, crowded streets, that karaoke scene from Lost in Translation. And all of that is great. It's really, really great. But for our trip this summer, we went in search of a very different Japan. A Japan not every tourist gets to see. A Japan that blows you away with its hospitality. A Japan that feels stuck in time in the very best way. We went in search of thoughtful, elegant, uncompromising Japan. And boy, did it deliver.
We began our journey in Hakone, a mountain resort town popular for its hot springs, views of Mt. Fuji and natural beauty. Just 60 miles outside of Tokyo, Hakone is a retreat from city life -- tranquil, lush and a place where time moves a little slower. Museums take up vast outdoor space here, kaiseki, or multi-course, meals are meant to be savored, and yukatas, or traditional bathrobes, are acceptable (encouraged!) dinner attire. Even its trains take their time meandering through its verdant forests, as if to remind us: the journey is the destination.
Next was Shibu Onsen, a 1,300-year-old hot spring town and popular base camp for Jigokudani Monkey Park. (Can you spot our furry friend?) Shibu Onsen feels somewhere between historic and ancient, like you walked into a traditional Japanese landscape painting. Here, visitors go one step further and wear their yukatas while visiting bathhouses peppering the atmospheric, nostalgic alleys. I can still hear the clip-clop of their wooden sandals smacking the cobblestone paths into the wee hours. It's no wonder this town is said to be the inspiration for Studio Ghilbli's Spirited Away.
Kanazawa was our home for the next few nights, and while it has everything you want in a Japanese city -- history, culture, world-class cuisine and first-rate shopping -- it somehow manages to feel cozy. You can walk from the impeccably preserved samurai district to the pop culture-infused shopping mall, and, amazingly, neither detracts from the other. Everything feels either really new or really old in Kanazawa, and the two worlds blend together seamlessly.
From Kanazawa, we ventured out to Shirakawago, and for half a day, we were transported to a fairytale land of thatched-roof homes, misty mountains and singing dwarves (just kidding about the last one). Nestled in a region known as the Japanese alps, Shirakawago is still home to about 500 people, and walking through their village felt right out of a storybook. We left before nightfall, but I have no doubt quiet evening strolls here feel like time travel.
Kyoto obviously resides very much on the beaten path, but our time there was marked by some unique experiences. My favorite among them was a boat ride down the Hozugawa River, where three jaunty boatmen rowed us past towering cliffs and ancient forests. The route dates back more than 400 years, and it feels as though it's never changed, with its wild and dream-like scenery. Summer wasn't the ideal weather for this adventure, but the floating cafe that pulled up next to us offering grilled squid, mochi and ice cold beer was the perfect pick-me-up.
The Japan we all know and love is certainly beloved for a reason. But the Japan we found this summer was something different entirely. I'll never forget the innkeeper waving goodbye as our van drove away, the buzz of the cicadas reminding us it's summer and the way each bowl of pearly rice felt like a new luxury each day. A slower, more deliberate Japan completely mesmerized us and made us wonder, are we doing everything all wrong? Probably not, but it can't hurt to ponder the thought.
